Grey weathered deck boards with visible grain and gaps, due for replacement

Deck Building

Deck Replacement in Jacksonville & Northeast Florida

Rebuild the whole thing, or just the part that wore out.

In short

Deck replacement covers two different jobs. Resurfacing replaces the walking surface and railings on a frame that is still structurally sound. Full replacement takes out the frame, posts and footings too, and is the right call when the structure beneath the boards has reached the end of its life.

Replacement options

  • Full deck replacement
  • Deck resurfacing over existing frames
  • Frame and joist replacement
  • Ledger and flashing correction
  • Railing and stair replacement
  • Upgrading timber decks to composite
  • Footing and post replacement

In detail

How we approach this work

01

Resurfacing

New decking and railings on the existing frame. The least expensive route to a new-looking deck, and entirely legitimate — provided the joists, ledger, posts and footings genuinely have years left. We verify that before recommending it.

02

Full replacement

Everything out, including footings where they are undersized or badly placed. The right answer when the frame has softened, the ledger was never flashed, or the footings do not meet current requirements.

03

Ledger and flashing correction

The most common serious defect we find on older decks. Where a ledger was fastened badly or never flashed, water has been running into the rim joist of the house for years. Replacement is the moment to fix it properly.

04

Timber to composite conversion

Replacing a worn timber surface with composite. The usual catch is joist spacing, which composite products often require to be tighter than timber decking did. Additional joists can generally be sistered in.

05

Railings and stairs

Older decks frequently have railing heights, baluster spacing and stair geometry that no longer meet current requirements. Replacement brings these up to standard.

Two different jobs with one name

When people say they need their deck replaced, they usually mean one of two very different projects, and the difference is thousands of dollars.

Resurfacing means the structure stays and the surface goes. New decking, usually new railings, often new stairs. The frame, posts and footings are retained because they have real service life left. This is a genuinely good option and we recommend it often.

Full replacement means the structure goes too. It is required when the frame has lost strength, the footings are inadequate, or — most commonly — when the ledger connection has been quietly rotting the rim joist of the house.

Deciding between them takes ten minutes with a flashlight and a probe, under the deck. Any contractor who quotes a resurface without going underneath is guessing.

The ledger tells you most of what you need to know

The ledger is the board bolted to the house that carries one whole side of the deck. Behind it there should be flashing that directs water out and away. On a great many decks built more than a decade or two ago, there is not.

Without flashing, every rain runs down the siding, behind the ledger, and sits against the rim joist of the house. Nothing is visible from above. The deck feels fine. Then one day a joist hanger pulls through, or a probe goes into the rim joist like soft cheese.

This is the defect that collapses decks, and it is the reason we start every assessment there. If the rim joist has gone, this is no longer a deck project — part of the house structure needs attention, and it needs doing before anything is rebuilt on top of it.

Replacement is the cheap moment to change things

Everything that is expensive to change on a finished deck is inexpensive during a replacement. Making it larger. Adding a second level to follow the fall of the ground. Moving the stairs to land somewhere more useful. Changing the railing to something that does not block the view. Switching the surface to composite.

All of it shares the demolition, mobilisation and finishing work already being paid for. If there is anything about the current deck you dislike, this is the conversation in which to say so.

How it runs

What working with us looks like

  1. 1

    Structural assessment

    We get underneath. Joists, ledger, flashing, posts, footings and hardware are all checked, and you get a straight answer on whether resurfacing is honest value or a cosmetic patch.

  2. 2

    Scope and options

    Usually two or three priced routes — resurface, partial rebuild, full replacement — so the decision is yours with the facts visible.

  3. 3

    Permits

    Full replacement generally requires a permit and inspections. Resurfacing may or may not, depending on jurisdiction and scope. We confirm and handle it.

  4. 4

    Demolition and rebuild

    Old material removed and disposed of, new structure built, inspections coordinated, site left clean.

Before you decide

Questions worth answering first

Getting these right at the planning stage costs nothing. Getting them wrong is expensive to undo.

How is the ledger?
This is the first thing to check and the most likely reason a deck needs full replacement rather than resurfacing. A rotted rim joist behind an unflashed ledger is a building problem, not just a deck problem.
Do the footings meet current requirements?
Older decks frequently have shallow, undersized or poorly placed footings. If they do, resurfacing just puts new boards on an inadequate foundation.
Is the railing compliant?
Height and baluster spacing requirements have changed over the years. A deck being substantially rebuilt will generally need to meet current standards.
Is this the moment to change the layout?
Like a dock, a deck is far cheaper to resize, reshape or re-level during a replacement than at any other time.

Answers

Deck Replacement — common questions

Can I just replace the deck boards and keep the frame?

Often yes, and it is good value when the frame is genuinely sound. What has to be verified is the condition of the joists, the ledger and its flashing, the posts and the footings. A resurface over a compromised frame looks like a new deck and has the lifespan of the old one. We always get underneath before recommending it.

How do I know if my deck needs full replacement?

The strongest indicators are a soft or rotted rim joist behind the ledger, multiple joists that give when probed, posts that are decayed at the base or sitting in standing water, footings that are shallow or have shifted, and any noticeable movement or sway in the structure. Any one of those points toward replacement rather than resurfacing.

Is deck replacement cheaper than building new?

Usually somewhat, because demolition of a deck is less involved than site preparation from scratch and the layout is already established. The saving is not as large as people expect, though, because the majority of the cost on either job is in the frame, footings and labour rather than the boards.

Do I need a permit to replace a deck?

Full replacement generally requires a building permit and inspections. Pure resurfacing — like-for-like boards on an unchanged frame — sometimes does not, but it varies by jurisdiction and we confirm rather than assume. Requirements differ across Duval, St. Johns, Clay, Nassau, Putnam and Flagler counties.

Can I make the deck bigger while replacing it?

Yes, and it is by far the cheapest time to do so. Extending during a replacement shares the mobilisation, demolition and finishing work with the main job. It will generally require a permit and may affect setbacks, which we check first.

What about the railings and stairs?

On most replacements these need updating to current requirements, which is worth knowing at quoting stage rather than discovering at inspection. Older decks commonly have railings too low and balusters too widely spaced by today's standards.

Next step

Request a deck replacement estimate

We will come back with a clear scope and an honest view of what your site can support.

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